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    The Ultimate Dive Buddy

    The Ultimate Dive Buddy

    There's a rule in scuba diving, drilled into every open-water student before they ever touch the water: never dive alone. You dive with a buddy. You watch their air, they watch yours. It's a simple rule that becomes something much deeper the first time you're thirty feet down and you realize how much trust it actually requires.

    I learned how deep that bond sometimes comes with a man I'll just call H.

    I was the captain of H's yacht for almost five years, and in that stretch, our working relationship became something else too, thanks to our shared love of diving. H loved sailing and diving in a way people do when it's less a hobby and more a piece of their identity. Before I came aboard, he'd had a stroke. He came through it well, all things considered — sharp as ever, walking with just a slight limp, living his life. But the stroke had left its fingerprints on him in small, stubborn ways.

    We found out exactly how much on our first dive together in the Caribbean.

    We took the tender over to a shallow sandy spot with about 15' of water and H geared up like he'd done hundreds of times before. But as soon as we were in the water, two things became immediately apparent. He couldn't kick both legs with equal strength, so instead of swimming in a straight line, he'd curve off to one side, correcting, overcorrecting, drifting again. And his buoyancy control — the constant art of staying neutral in the water column — kept slipping away from him. He'd sink to the bottom, push air into his BC, shoot up to the surface, blow his BC and sink to the bottom again. His stroke hadn't taken much from him but it seemed it had taken his ability to dive. You could see him doing the math on it, right there in the water.

    Having listened to him talk about his anticipation of diving for the last few months, I wasn't ready to let that be the answer. So I swam over, tugged on his BC and made a cutting motion to let him know not to change it. I grabbed the valve on the top of his tank and started to use my own BC to manage buoyancy for both of us. And I started to do the swimming — for both of us. He wouldn't need to correct a drifting line or fight to stay level. He could just be underwater again, the way he used to be.

    It worked. Not just worked — it became our thing. For almost five years after that, this was simply how H and I dove. I'd hold his tank, control our depth, and steer us wherever the reef or the wall or the wreck wanted to take us. If he spotted something — a turtle, a morey eel tucked in the rocks, a wall of silver fish catching the light — he'd point, and I'd bank us over toward it like we were one diver instead of two. We kept it shallow, mostly forty to fifty feet, easy dives with easy currents, which suited us both fine. We weren't chasing depth records. We just enjoyed the freedom of the water.

    Jamaica gave us some of our best dives. Guadeloupe gave us a few of our favorites, including one afternoon we finned over to the underwater statue of Jacques Cousteau, hovering there together in the still way divers do, while someone snapped a photo of the two of us next to Jacques.

    People talk about scuba diving as a solo sport with a safety buddy tacked on. Sometimes that's not quite right. Down there, you genuinely need each other — and somewhere between his tank valve and my BC, H and I found a version of dive buddies that outlasted any dive log. It's still some of the best memories I have of diving and of him.

    Leisurenut Diving, The Brave Will get the Oceans

    5 Things to Consider Before Traveling Alone

    5 Things to Consider Before Traveling Alone

    As someone who hates the idea of simply going to dinner by myself at the bar down the street from my apartment, many of my friends were shocked when I told them I was going to be going on a 10-day solo trip.  I always believed that the most fun could be had when you travel with a significant other or friends, and I thought that traveling by myself would be pretty boring.  It also didn’t help that the idea of being alone while in a foreign country immediately made me think of the litany of terrible things that happen to women traveling abroad on their own.  They made Hostel and the million Taken movies for a reason, right?

    But nonetheless, I decided to give it a shot.  I’d had friends tell me about their amazing experiences while traveling, and realized it had been too long since I had my passport stamped.  Without a significant other or friend to tag along, I booked my tickets and started to plan my trip.  And now, as I fly back to the states after 10 days in London, I am realizing that there are some things to consider before embarking on a spontaneous solo trip.

    1. Parlez-vous Anglais? - Not wanting to add the stressor of a language barrier, I picked an English-speaking country as my first solo excursion.  While English is becoming more prevalent in most countries, I felt that it would be too difficult to go somewhere and not know what everyone was saying...and not have anyone with you to help you figure it out.  However, now realizing that there are a multitude of different apps and software for language learning or translation, I might try a non-English speaking the next time around. I’ve actually recently started teaching myself French (with the help of Rosetta Stone) and think, despite being known for romance, Paris would be a great place to visit by myself.  Although it’s more likely I’ll test out my newfound French skills in Montreal first.
    2. To book or not to book? - Being conscious that I would be footing the entirety of the bill for this trip on my own, I tried to not be too picky when it came to booking hotels. I used Booking.com to find hotels in three parts of the city, giving myself more exposure to different areas and hotel options.  One of the main things I found when I was looking for rooms was that there were many (at least in the price range I was in) that had shared bathrooms or twin beds.  While I can deal with a bitty bed, I made a point to not book any places that didn’t have en-suite bathrooms, fearing a National Lampoon’s European Vacation-esque encounter with a stranger while in the tub.  I also found that I got some great rates if I booked a couple days before I needed the reservation.  Sure, it’s nice to not have to worry about moving around every couple days or making a new reservation because your current hotel stay is almost up, but it’s also nice to be able to spend the money I saved on the room for more important things… like a pint of lager.
    3. Excuse me, but do you have WiFi? - Technology is seriously amazing.  Almost everywhere you go now, there is WiFi.  Walking around London, my phone was constantly trying to hook up to different free networks, allowing me to access maps and train schedules on the go.  However, I also found that there are some cheap data-only SIMs that will allow you complete mobile access throughout your trip.  For just a few quid, I was able to get a SIM and a gig of data, and the only real issue I had was figuring out where to get the card (I’m sorry, but what’s a “news agent” and where do I find one?).  For reference, it’s best to look into carriers and prepaid options in the country you are going to visit before you head out on your trip.  I would have never guessed that a place called “Carphone Warehouse” would sell mobile plans…. I also checked my American carrier to see what my rates would be if I used my SIM while abroad.  Although a bit more expensive, I did use this option a few times to avoid the hassle of switching out my SIM and dealing with a new foreign phone number.  I mean, I couldn't risk losing all my WhatsApp messages, right?
    4. How do you get to Carnegie Hall?  Practice.  But really, which train takes me there? - Once you figure out your data situation, make sure you know where you are going.  Google Maps has a feature that allows you to download a map area and pull it up while you are offline.  I found this to be really useful at times when I just needed to figure out which street I was on or an easy way to get from point A to point B.  I also found that apps like Citymapper are great when it comes to navigating a new city’s transit system.  It not only gave me really in-depth directions (including which part of the train is the best to sit on), it also showed (accurate) times when the trains would be arriving. I am seriously in love with this app and am a bit disappointed that I really have no use for it at home in Boston.
    5. Can I get a latte, your WiFi password, and the code to the bathroom? - For most people, vacations are about food and the best places to eat.  For me, it was finding a coffee shop that served multiple functions: cheap food/coffee, internet access, and a restroom.  Spending as much time walking around the city as I did, I was constantly ducking into a Starbucks or Pret A Manger to refuel.  And since many of the toilets around the city require payment (which is insane to me), this was also an optimal time to relieve my bladder.  I don’t really have any suggestions for apps or things to consider on this front, although I’m sure that there is money to be made on an app that maps out free (or just nearby) toilets.  

    Besides this, you will also want to download travel guides and look into some of the events that will be taking place while you are on your trip.  In the end, I found that traveling by myself was actually just as fun as traveling with other people.  It made me be more social and step out of my comfort zone.  I absolutely recommend going somewhere by yourself at some point in your life.